It’s not easy to convert even the most ardent carnivores into fervent vegetarian fans. Burma Burma has done exactly that for the last decade. Breaking away from the meat-heavy Southeast Asian meals, the vegetarian restaurant not only draws in patrons with its diverse range of meatless Burmese dishes, but also successfully takes them to a world of unfamiliar flavours and textures, beyond the regular khow suey.
While many are aware that Ankit Gupta, co-founder of Burma Burma was inspired to open the restaurant by his mother’s nearly three decades of living in Burma, interestingly, his first visit to Burma was only 12 years ago, just before he started the restaurant. Recalling his visit to a small, bustling teahouse in Yangon, Ankit says, “I sat down and ordered Mohinga, the national dish of Burma and it was just as my mom had described it - lemongrass-infused broth with rice noodles and a crispy fritter on top. As I tasted it, I realised that the simplicity of the dish was deceiving. There was incredible depth of flavour, layers of umami, and a balance of spices that seemed effortless but clearly took years of tradition and a deft hand to perfect. It was at that moment that I knew that if I ever opened a specialty restaurant, it had to bring these very flavours and stories to India.”
Given that Burmese cuisine usually features a lot of fermented seafood, meat, and poultry, opening a vegetarian Burmese restaurant in India was quite a risk. However, it was a conscious choice and the belief that the essence of Burmese cuisine can be effectively represented in its original vegetarian form by exploring various textures, cooking techniques, and flavours. Ankit recounts, “Although there were initial apprehensions, particularly when we opened our first restaurants in Gurgaon, Delhi NCR, which has a large non-vegetarian diner base; we were pleasantly surprised by the overwhelming response and popularity of Burma Burma. People come to experience the flavours of Burmese cuisines and there is so much to choose from that they never seem to miss or complain about the absence of non-vegetarian options.”
While some dishes traditionally include meat, they have taken the approach of using mock meats to replicate the textures and flavours that individuals may miss. That said, in indigenous Burmese cuisine, vegetarian dishes are prevalent, with meats typically added as broths or toppings. “While travelling extensively across Burma, we came across a wide range of vegetarian dishes. We recognized the significance of this vegetarian aspect of the culinary heritage, which lies at the soul and core of Burmese cuisine, and felt it was crucial to showcase that through our menu offering. This allows us to offer a comprehensive menu that reflects the essence of Burmese cuisine while catering to vegetarian and vegan preferences as well,” he adds.
Introducing Indian diners to Burmese cuisine for a decade
There has been a significant change in how people in India engage with or understand Burmese food since the restaurant's opening. Ankit says, “Over the past 10 years, I’ve noticed a real shift in how people in India engage with Burmese cuisine. When we first opened, Burmese food was still relatively unknown here, and most diners had very little exposure to the flavours and traditions that define it. Many people thought Burmese food was just a mix of Indian or Thai cuisine. We had to take the time to introduce them to the distinct elements - like fermented tea leaves, tamarind-based curries, and the balance of savoury and sour flavours in the cuisine.”
One of the biggest changes observed is how people now understand that Burmese food, especially in its vegetarian form, can be light, nourishing, and incredibly flavourful.
Ingredients: A mix of local and imported
While many believe what makes the food at Burma Burma authentic are ingredients that are sourced from the native land, it's actually a healthy mix of local and imported. A significant portion of these are sourced locally in India due to the proximity and shared border with Burma. Many of the ingredients are readily available in India, especially in the Northeast region. Select cities have the popular Burma bazaars which offer a wide range of products and ingredients that are essential to Burmese cuisine.
That said, there are a few specific ingredients that they import every 2-3 months. Ingredients such as fermented tea leaves, sun dried mustard, fermented soybean discs, and special spices that aren’t easy to find locally. Ankit shares, “One such example is the tea leaf paste - Laphet, which we source from the Mandalay region of Burma. This paste adds a unique flavour to our dishes. Another imported ingredient is the fermented mustard disc, also known as Gundruk in Nepal and in the North- East region of India. This sour-tasting ingredient is used in stir-fries and soups to impart an umami which is distinct and delicious. It undergoes a two-month fermentation process before it becomes consumable. Additionally, we also import fermented soybean discs that are incorporated into our noodles and soups, adding a distinct flavour.”
Nuanced non-alcohol beverage program
No hyperbole! They have been leading the way, even before non-alcoholic beverages became popular. Setting the trend, rather than following it with their all-natural, house made ingredients and avoiding artificial syrups. Ankit elaborates, “Guided by our very prolific beverage master, Santosh, the approach for drinks incorporates several new-age, beverage techniques such as zero-proof, smoking and fat wash to draw out the best combination of flavours. Moreover, techniques such as lacto-fermentation, pickling, cold brews, are also a part of this unique, no-alcohol beverage program. Sustainable practices including aquafaba and recycling, dehydration of kitchen ingredients to create special salts and garnishes, and the use of concentrates further contribute to our signature beverage offering.” Add fruit leathers and different kinds of flavoured ice used to chill the drinks, to that.
When asked, is there anything he wished he had done differently, he says, “One thing I might have changed is the pace at which we expanded. In the early years, I was so focused on growth that I didn’t always take the time to pause and truly enjoy the small victories along the way. We opened new locations quickly, and while that helped us reach many more people, it also meant we faced some challenges in maintaining the same intimate connection with our guests and ensuring consistency across all the outlets.”
He continues, “Another thing I would have liked to do earlier is dive deeper into sharing the cultural stories behind our food. At first, we were mostly focused on making sure the flavours were right and that the operations at the restaurants ran smoothly. But over time, I realised that what makes our restaurant special isn’t just the food-it’s the stories of Burmese heritage and food culture and how that ties into our menu. If I could go back, I’d invest more in building that narrative from the start, helping people connect not just with the food, but with the history and tradition behind it.”
The 10-year-trail menu
They take Burmese cuisine very seriously and it reflects in their limited menu. From Kayin’s traditional Tar La Baw soup, which is fermented and sun dried bamboo broth infused with slow roasted tomato and rice vermicelli noodles to Sarbuthi - soup made with corn husk and shiitake broth topped with corn fritter to Siman Thoke - chickpea shreds and raw papaya salad, it’s a menu of all things comforting. The Highway Meal Parcel featuring steamed rice, mock meat and potato curry served with radish pickle, and mushroom chips demands all your attention. It will leave you utterly satisfied. And so will the tangy Sar Hype - wok tossed rice noodles, seared with mock meat and tofu served with tamarind and sawtooth coriander sauce. For desserts, the tea lead financier with a fermented tea foam, kaffir lime curd, honey Chantilly, and citrus mango ice cream is the ideal way to conclude your meal.