The word 'larrikin' means a mischievous maverick. But in the case of Larrikin, the bar that's making waves at Juhu, it's classic all the way. From the dark teal walls and leatherette upholstery to mood-lit 40s photographs, it's a deep-seated Godfather fixation that's sure to find favour with social media creators.
Vibe check
The ovate island bar that dominates the centre of the main room is the focal point, both in terms of design as well as function. Look up and you'll see interesting wooden and textile elements making up the light fixture hanging down from the ceiling, giving it quite a mid-century modern feel. The dusky rose velvet bar chairs and the polished brass accents go well with this look, as do the well togged out guests that have clearly got the memo to dress up for dinner at Larrikin.
The adjoining cigar room has clever slats that allow the smoke to curl outside and, coupled with their fabulously on-point playlist you only have to allow your imagination to run slightly wild to imagine men in sharp suits and stylish hats plotting their next mafia move here!
Serving up nostalgia
Fortunately, I only need to focus my energies on plotting what to sample from the rather substantial menu. The options across the board veer towards quite classic, tried and tested dishes. But I decide to start with one that would probably appeal more to Gen Z than the boomers — an Avocado Feta Salad that's rich with the creaminess of avo, crunch of couscous, freshness of roquette, tartness of olives, saltiness of the crumbled feta cheese, and sweetness of raisins. Some juicy cherry tomatoes are quite the stars in this excellent ensemble cast.
While I'm spooning up the refreshing salad, I pore over the cocktail menu curated by mixologist Chetan Gangan. It's not easy to choose, because each of the drinks has been conceptualised to create a sense of nostalgia amongst those who grew up in Bombay (as we called Mumbai in our wonder years).
Prosecco prances with bubblegum gin and candy floss in Pink! Meh!, and Pisco picks kalakhatta to be on its team for BB Stings, while raw turmeric and kacchi kairi skip around with vodka. From the nine signature cocktails on offer, I select the B-Telgroni, a smooth yet potent mix of betel leaf-infused gin, Campari and a deliciously decadent gulkhand rosso. Served with a big betel leaf leaning against one side of the old-fashioned glass, it's a drink that's perfect for moody Blues-laced afternoons as well as sophisticated late nights.
The concept cocktails make sense, although their somewhat strange names aren't quite as relatable as their ingredients and presentation.
I shift my attention back to the food menu, which has a long list of Continental appetisers, pizza, pasta, risotto, apart from some finer mains. Chef Dil Gurung has ensued that there's equal opportunity for vegetarians to truly indulge as there is for those who enjoy poultry, meat, or seafood.
Their Parmesan Truffle Fries, crisp and aromatic, pass muster and I imagine there will be a plateful of these addictive flavour bombs at every table, as they are perfect as an accompaniment to drinks. The Porcini Mushroom Risotto that comes next, is perfectly al dente yet still velvety.
For mains, I'm torn between the New Zealand Lamb Chops in a red wine jus, the fire-grilled Rib Eye Steak in a cherry-Bearnaise sauce, and the Oven Baked Lobster served with pepper-anchovy marinara sauce. I finally pick the lobster, which is baked in smoked Scarmoza cheese.
The inherent sweetness of the cheese-crusted lobster is balanced perfectly with the tangy-spicy yet umami sauce and buttery grilled Brussels sprouts. I ask the waitstaff about the blue 'caviar' that dot the dish. There's a relay race to find the correct answer until I'm finally informed that the bright blue 'pearls' are made with blue Curacao and lemon juice.
Telling it like it is
I believe that Larrikin, with its stellar F&B, wicked vibe, and upcoming plans for musical Jazz nights, has great potential as a posh yet popular pub. It’s like a contemporary take on stuffy old boys’ clubs, one where men and women feel equally comfortable savouring a single malt at the stylish bar while they enjoy Teddy Swims’ rendition of Tennessee Whiskey.
But, some added polish, perhaps just a little more attention to training the team better, will go a long way in establishing the restobar's cred amongst the well-heeled clientele that its prime Juhu location brings.
Owner Ankit Tamang whose China Gate Group is behind several popular restaurants and bars such as China Gate, Caravan Serai, Global Fusion, Tap, Bora Bora, and Walkman Bar, has enough experience in this sphere to understand how to position Larrikin as a sophisticated lounge. In this context, dealing with requests and queries efficiently is as important as creating the ambience and offerings. After all, The Godfather is in the details!
Epilogue of an epic evening
"Leaving so soon?" the affable manager asks, as I call it an early night, despite the fact that I'm loving their lighting and Jazz playlist. "Come back again soon," he smiles, tempting me with... "The Homemade Tiramisu is to die for."
That does it... He's gone and made me an offer I can't refuse.
Address: Ground Floor, Juhu Tara Rd, Opp. Juhu Beach, Opposite Ramada Plaza, Mumbai